Different Phases of Licensing Activities

Any criticism of the concept of a license seems to focus on the experience of Pierre Cardin. Cardin develops very few products that seems to specialize in the package is the average for permission to suitcases or food mediumquality. But, as we have seen on the example of Joop, there are other ways to develop licensed products.

To clarify this issue and determine the actual value of the licensing activities must take account of this activity during the life cycle of the luxury brand.


Level 1

As has been started, the brand needs visibility. How to sell your product before, you have to build awareness and identity among a large group of consumers. Licensing agreements are an effective way for the brand to increase its activities and global exposure.

At this very early stage potential licensees will be reluctant to take a brand that does not have enough knowledge to help launch a new product category. However, if the brand of ready-to-wear in a position to sign a license agreement for men's suits, which will not fail to be a good opportunity, provided that the identity of a brand can legitimize a new product category Ladies product is of high quality. It would also be an opportunity to establish important license agreements watches, jewelry, or frames.

For European brands at this early stage of the licensing agreements in a given area may help in the development of national brand and increase its visibility abroad. Asia, especially in Japan, was a paradise for brands wishing to increase their visibility or just looking for money. Japanese companies are very interested in the activities of licensing and product categories and developed a very specific success (women with scarves printed versions of the biggest scarves, for example) on their domestic markets. In Japan, the luxury brand often use a licensed master who, in turn, sublicense signs contracts with many manufacturers. And ""you can have a large number of licensing operations in Japan, including a bridge line (new line) lessexpensive women's ready-to-use, as well as a complete collection of accessories that can add to the brand presence in the country. These agreements are usually limited to the territory of Japan.

In some cases, the actions approved in Japan do not exist in Europe. In the 1980s and 1990s, for example, Lancel had a full collection of men's and women's ready-to-wear and accessories. Rochas, Paco Rabanne and Re'villon also had a license for the full range of products, which were then in Paris.

It is very profitable, but it makes sense only when the laws are used to create a real brand presence in Europe, freestanding stores and shows the ladies ready to wear fashion.

a little more difficult to maintain, people are traveling more and expect to find in Paris or Milan products that are similar to those which were in Japan in the last decade, however, these agreements have become. And so, gradually, these licensed companies become less active, but still constitute the main source of income for many brands.

Interest in the license master decreased somewhat ""in Japan, China entered the takeover.

Stage 2

When the brand is growing and becoming more effective at home, it's time to start a new round of licensing.

When brand awareness makes it possible to offer all over the world such things as perfumes and cosmetics, watches, writing instruments, jewelery and become a necessity.

And ""through the development of these licenses that the brand will increase its presence and consumer awareness. As mentioned above, the digital advertising benefits are much greater than those of fashion and perfume, which bears his name gives greater credibility of the brand. Lolita Lempicka is probably best known for its licensed fragrances for fashion, Guy Laroche and is best known perfume Ore'al Respect for fashion.

The choice of the concessionaire smell is a very important element in the development of the brand. When Louis Fe'raud signed a licensing agreement with Avon fragrances in the United States, which made a big mistake.

Perfumes are mainly sold door to door, and therefore will not be strong advertising support in major magazines. The fact that Avon was the strongest in the United States, making it difficult for the brand in Europe, which was established in Paris. Fe'raud probably would have done much better executed a license agreement with Ore'al or cosmopolitan cosmetics (now Procter & Gamble).

Phase 2 is the ideal place to develop the brand at the time of licensing. In addition to these important contracts around the world, it may also be possible to sign specific contracts in Latin America, where the license can be developed. It is also the case of Korea and, to a lesser extent in Thailand.

However, in the development of these secondary markets, it is important to make sure that every local supply is not contrary to the terms of existing authorizations around the world.

Through the development of perfumes offered in this second phase, the brand can exist in the world and develop new businesses. If Azzedine Alaia has developed a successful license fragrance, fashion her case would be much stronger today and better known to a wider range of customers.

Quite perfume Azzedine Alaia would be sold in duty-free shops around the world, raising global awareness of the brand. A wide selection of luxury wrist Azzedine Alaia would also be enhanced creative talent of this exceptional designer has reinvented the luxury group identity in life.

And ""when the brand is becoming well known that the implementation of the perfume license makes more sense and can act as an amplifier and an accelerator for the brand. However, this should not happen too quickly. When Christian Lacroix launched its first fragrance, C'est la vie, in 1990, only two years later he created his own fashion house. His name was known in Paris and New York, but far less than Dusseldorf, Manchester or Geneva, where her scent was to be sold and bought. This moment is necessary to accelerate the development of the brand. Christian Lacroix has always been under the influence of failures 1990. Had he waited another five years, who knows? Brand could still exist today.

Stage 3

As the brand develops through different stages, the next step is to open independent stores in major cities. Sometimes it can be in direct conflict with a development license, by definition, a much larger distribution network. If the brand already has a license to sell underwear, belts, scarves, leather goods in department stores and multibrand stores will have difficulty selling their products in their stores, hypermarkets especially when they can sell the same products reduced prices. This kind of uncoordinated and implementation can send confusing signals harmful to consumers.

Confusion will arise, although the brand specialty stores that sell, for example, collections of ready-to-wear and accessories only for larger chain stores. Offer brand boutique only a limited range of products would be difficult to draw.

Step 3, and then the shift direction of a main policies. brand managers must reduce the number of licenses for individual shops open and developed, but the brand must not rush into this. It makes no sense to negotiate the immediate cancellation of the existing high price (like YSL discovered when it was acquired by Gucci PPR) permission. The transition from a strong Commercial rugged luxury hotel accommodation is not always easy, but it can be done, as experience shows, Christian Dior. Christian Dior was a very strong brand license in Japan until 2002. The management Dior probably preparing for years stood. He opened independent shops that could not really be profitable because of competition from the authorized activities in the stores. But when the Master Licensee Agreement, Kanebo, expired, it was not renewed, and the brand was able to provide, with great success, the direct import of ready-to-wear and accessories. The basis for raising awareness of Dior made in recent years under a licensing agreement with Kanebo.

Timing is essential: too early, and the brand does not have the necessary consumer awareness; too late and has already lost momentum.

Step 4

When the brand has stores in major cities around the world, it does not mean you should stop all activities royalties. If you have a strong smell of a business license, he should continue as usual; This would be an additional resource. If you have license agreements tie frames and sunglasses and clothing boutiques designed primarily for women, once again, there is no reason not to go ahead with the business license for men.

We have already mentioned that even Chanel has a license agreement. Valentino and Moschino also licensing agreements. Moschino leather bags is made by the Italian licensee, Bourbonnais. This is a new balance, which must be developed in step 4. In this way, license, at all stages of brand development, is necessary and is part of the identity and global financial stability. Speaking on the license they did not understand that at the moment is almost all companies; This is useful or necessary in a given time may not be necessary at a later time. This issue is very important and requires sensitivity and time and execution.

At every step in the development of the luxury brand there are different types of licenses are all activities that can generate profits and brand awareness and reinforce brand identity.

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